Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to achieve as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very dinky work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Allowable winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its motor by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.
The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat's fuel tank is full - leave just a dinky room for expansion - and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn't full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.
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Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.
Protecting Your Engine
Run the motor for a while to warm it up and convert the oil while it's warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. convert the oil filters. If your motor uses coolant drain the current fluid from the motor block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.
When a boat is not being used, oil tends to decree at the lowest of the motor block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray "fogging oil" inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.
Replace the engine's old gear oil with fresh oil. Arrange of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.
Outboards
Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the motor and wash down the motor with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the motor until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water defiant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the motor or polish with a potential wax. convert the gear oil in the lower unit.
If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the warehouse duration and check the water level from time to time.
It is also sensible to remove any important nautical electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and potential damage caused by climatic characteristic changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opening to recognize items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and potential replacement.
Propeller
This is also a good time to check your boat's propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained widespread wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any important repairs during the winterizing process.
Clean, Clean, Clean
Clean the boat completely inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a potential polish to the exterior surfaces to generate a protective fence against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, together with all timber, vinyl and carpet.
To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate colse to them, or great yet, remove them from the boat.
Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they'll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a dinky antifreeze.
Empty The Head
Pump out the keeping tank at an beloved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an beloved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, keeping tank, Y-valve, macerator and removal hose. Check your owner's hand-operated to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won't damage your system.
Water Tanks
Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the principles by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.
Put it on Blocks
If you own a trailer boat, reconsider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. recognize the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.
If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you'll need a boat cover. A good potential 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be enough for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to safe against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For ultimate conditions you could reconsider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.
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